Monday 12 May 2008



YOUR WEEKLY WINE COLUMN for week beginning 12 May 2008

wine with david ellis

GIVING vines shorter and more intense watering rather than traditional trickle methods, and changing trellising to allow grapes to ripen in dappled light instead of under a direct sun, have rewarded the McLaren Vale's Dowie Doole whose owners and winemaker say that like it or not, global warming and climate change have impacted on the industry "like a sledgehammer."

"You'd be remiss to ignore the importance of these changes and to fail to take clear measures to counteract them," says Dowie Doole Winemaker, Brian Light who strives for reds that are savoury rather than overtly sweet in their fruitiness, and so giving them greater appeal when partnering food.

As well as those changes to watering and trellising, Dowie Doole also uses treated water from a recycling plant to conserve natural supplies, resulting in the just-released 2006 Reserve Shiraz being a great credit to the efforts of Brian Light and the company's owners, an example for others to follow.

The palate is loaded with black cherry, dark fruits, spice and marzipan, while aromas of blackberries, cherries and charry oak literally leap out of the glass; a special-treat $50 wine, try it with a Greek-style leg of Bultarra lamb (farmed on saltbush in NSW's Riverland) and marinated in lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, oregano, pepper, and slow roasted. Serve with Greek salad and crusty bread.

ONE FOR LUNCH: PINOT Gris, Viognier and Traminer are a somewhat out-of-left-field blend, but Saltram  has melded the best of each variety in a wonderful 2007 Shadowood label that shows the Eden Valley isn't just about great reds

At $23.99 this is one to enjoy with a casual calamari and rocket salad that will match perfectly its beautiful orchard fruits, grapefruit and guava flavours.

WINE OF THE WEEK: DON'T consider Sparkling Shiraz is just a Christmas wine – this really is a year-round drop to kick off a dinner party, to share with canapés, or even set up the taste buds for a bbq. Katnook Founder's Block 2005 at $19 is a great choice – so grab a bottle or two and start partying. 


. AN enticing result from adapting to climate change.

. OUT of left field, match this with calamari and rocket salad.

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