Monday 18 February 2008


THERE was a time back in the '70s when mention of Gewurztraminer brought about involuntary sucking-in of the cheeks and even a little shudder up the spine of many of us at the thought of some of the sweet, cloying wine of the era.

How things have changed. And amongst those who've steered it have been
Suzanne and Ian Little of The Little Wine Company who, since making
their first Gewurztraminer in 1984, have seen their label become
Australia's most-awarded for the variety.

And their just-released 2006 Olivine Gewurztraminer is anything but
sweet and cloying: it's racy, restrained, has a crisp dry finish, and
on the palate ranges through from musk and Turkish Delight to lychees
and citrus.

Although based in the Hunter Valley, in their constant search for the
perfect Traminer grape, Suzanne and Ian found for their 2006 what they
call "a beauty of a vineyard" in Victoria's Goulburn Valley, one that
gave them intense yet delicately flavoured fruit from mature cool
climate vines.

Pay $19 and relish this wine with Thai or other dishes with a bit of spiciness.

OUT OF THE BOX: WEST Australia's Fifth Leg may sound a somewhat
quirky operation, and while the team behind it obviously have lots of
fun doing what they do, they also know how to come up with knock-out

Owned by Devil's Lair Wines, their 2007 Fifth Leg White is a zesty
blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Chardonnay that's full of
fruity lychee, lime, citrus and fresh cut-grass flavours – and not a
hint of oak.

At $20.99 it's nice and refreshing served chilled with seafoods, or
try it with asparagus under a mild cheese sauce.


PHOTO CAPTIONS: OUT of a "beauty of a vineyard," the Little Wine

Company's 2006 Olivine Gewurztraminer.

QUIRKY name but a quality drop: the
2007 Fifth

Leg White from WA's Devil's Lair.

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