News from the Australian wine industry.
Read about new wine releases and more from experts like David Ellis, Winsor Dobbin, John Rozentals and Roderick Eime.
Monday, 28 April 2008
PITCHING TO CONNOISSEURS – ’OWZAT?
Wc28Apr08
YOUR WEEKLY WINE COLUMN for week beginning 28 April 2008
wine with david ellis
PITCHING TO CONNOISSEURS – 'OWZAT?
NOT many winemakers can boast a cricket pitch in the middle of their vineyards, but when Jim Barry Wines bought the disused Penola Cricket Ground in South Australia's Coonawarra ten years ago, they decided to leave the pitch intact as something of a tribute to the State's cricketing greats.
MD of the family-owned company, Peter Barry planted four clones of Cabernet Sauvignon on the ground, leaving a path through to the pitch ("it's got the world's shortest run-up," he says,) and has just released the inaugural wine from this unusual vineyard – appropriately labelled 2005 First Eleven.
Vines for this first wine from the Penola Cricket Ground vineyard were hand-pruned, and fruit selectively hand-harvested to ensure fruit was gathered at full ripeness.
The result is a classic young full-bodied Coonawarra Cabernet with a palate rich in blackcurrant, clove and cinnamon, velvety tannins and liquorice and cherries. Pay $60 and couple with char-grilled steak, a walnut sauce and celeriac mash.
ONE FOR LUNCH – a very special lunch: Katnook's Prodigy Coonawarra Shiraz 2004 is one of those exceptional wines for exceptional occasions, the result of an ideal growing season and the hands-on attention that can be paid to a very small vineyard with a long lineage of outstanding production.
The very noticeable raspberry and plum fruit flavours, sweet anis spices, licorice and hints of cracked pepper feature on the palate, coupled with soft and lingering tannins; pay $95 for that special occasion and share at the table with pesto crusted Frenched lamb chops.
WINE OF THE WEEK: New Zealand's Secret Stone has added a Pinot Gris to its stable, a beautifully crispy, tropical-fruit-rich wine from the Marlborough region of the South Island; great buying at $20.99 to enjoy with pan-fried salmon.
(Need a drink? Past wine columns are archived on http://vintnews.com)
……………
Photo captions:
HIT drop from Jim Barry Wines is a classic young Coonawarra Cabernet
KATNOOK Prodigy Coonawarra Shiraz an exceptional wine for exceptional occasions
SECRET's out: Secret Stone Pinot Gris: tropical fruit rich from New Zealand
Monday, 21 April 2008
JUGGLING ACT’S A WINNING TURN
YOUR WEEKLY WINE COLUMN for week beginning 21 April 2008
wine with david ellis
Senior Winemaker at Western Australia’s Ferngrove Vineyards, Kim Horton puts the success of his stunning 2007 Diamond Chardonnay down to two things – a bit of juggling in the vineyard and a bit more in the winery.
“2007 was one of the most intense and earliest harvests we’ve seen at Ferngrove,” he says. “A blast of hot weather in early March had us working really hard in the vineyard, followed by our juggling acts which really paid off.”
Kim chose fruit from four blocks carrying two different vine clones for his 2007 Diamond Chardonnay, picking one parcel before the hot weather and the second after it – but ultimately being forced to abandon the latter-picked.
Despite this problem, the resultant wonderful nectarine, lemongrass, ginger and spicy oak make this beautifully creamy drop one that enthusiasts of the Ferngrove label (based in the Frankland River region 360k’s south of Perth) will quickly snap up – particularly as only limited supplies are available.
Invest $23.99 and serve with chicken or pork and stir-fried Asian greens.
ONE FOR LUNCH: Back in the 1830s Major Thomas Mitchell wrote glowingly of the “rich and verdant” pastoral lands he’d discovered in Central Victoria.
Settlers soon followed the route of “the Major’s Line,” and today growers like David and Ruth Norris at Faraday on the foothills of Mount Alexander (from which Mitchell wrote his praises) are producing enviable quality wine grapes.
Blackjack Vineyards’ 2005 Major’s Line Shiraz made from the Norris’ fruit displays beautifully soft blackberry, liquorice and a little menthol fruit flavour, coupled with oak tannins; good value at $25 with
WINE OF THE WEEK: Katnook Estate’s 2007 Founder’s Block Sauvignon Blanc: zesty and racy with loads of gooseberry, elderflower and a touch of fresh citrus on the palate. Snap it up at $20 and serve with seafoods.
(Need a drink? We’re archived on http://www.vintnews.com)
…………………..
PHOTO CAPTIONS:
WA winner: Ferngrove Diamond Chardonnay a stunner with port and stir-fried Asian vegies.
MAJOR success – Blackjack Vineyards’ 2005 Major’s Line Shiraz great value at $25,
Monday, 14 April 2008
GREAT REDS AND WHITES THAT ARE ORANGE
GREAT REDS AND WHITES THAT ARE ORANGE
ORANGE in the Central West of New South Wales has gained quite a
reputation for its Chardonnays in the quarter century since the first
vineyards were planted there in the early 1980s.
Now Philip Shaw is showing the region's ability to produce great reds
too – his 2006 Philip Shaw Wines Pinot Noir No 8 proving itself a
darn good drop with wonderful red berry flavours, a touch of spiciness
and soft tannins, and on the nose intense truffle notes, cherry
blossom and perfume scents.
Fruit was harvested from Philip's own 47ha Koomooloo Vineyard that
sits at a cool-climate 868m above sea level; and as he reckons the
most critical stage with Pinot is the gamble on just when to pick, he
chose to label his Pinot Noir No. 8 because that's the Chinese number
for good fortune.
And then there's his sorting table, a practice common in Burgundy but
not so Australia: he has half a dozen people gently handle the fruit
on the sorting table as it comes in, minutely picking out individual
grapes with imperfections.
It's time-consuming and tedious, but it pays off: His 2006 No. 8 Pinot
Noir is a must-buy at $40 to savour over with plum sauce-basted roast
lamb.
ONE FOR LUNCH: TIM Adams is more than particular about the fruit that
goes into his wines, and for his premium 2007 Riesling selected
batches from across no fewer than ten vineyards in the Claire Valley.
Then he used only the first 500 litres of free-run juice per tonne of
fruit, creating a wine that's intensely flavoured with a zesty acid
finish and lemon-lime aromas; pay $22 and enjoy with seafood salad and
warm baguettes.
WINE OF THE WEEK: KATNOOK Estate's 2005 Estate Shiraz has had time to
develop huge fruit on the palate coupled with sweet vanillin and light
cedary oak tones; a remarkable celebratory wine at $40 with
thick-sliced leg ham and the works.
(Need a drink? We're archived on http://www.vintnews.com)
…………………..
PHOTO CAPTIONS:
LUCKY No. 8: Philip Shaw chose the Chinese number for good fortune to
label his Orange Pinot Noir.
BEING picky about his grapes paid off for Tim Adams' 2007 Claire
Valley Riesling.
Monday, 31 March 2008
PENFOLDS’ BINS BREAK NEW GROUND
YOUR WEEKLY WINE COLUMN for 31 March 2008
wine with david ellis
PENFOLDS' BINS BREAK NEW GROUND
THE annual release of Penfolds' Bin range is always much anticipated
by aficionados, and this year's Bins that have just hit the shelves
are sure to have the faithful lining up for their favourite numbers
for investment purposes or special-occasion dining.
Eight reds and whites from the 2005 to 2008 vintages are amongst those
just-released, including a first-ever single-vineyard Bin from the NSW
Central West, the 2007 Bin 311 Orange Chardonnay.
Made to both reflect the Bin 311 style and the Orange region itself,
this is an exceptional example of cool climate Chardonnay with nice
stone fruit flavours, a touch of nougat and a refreshing acidic
backbone; you'll find it equally enjoyable alone or with pan-fried
Atlantic salmon and stir-fried Asian greens.
Bin 311 was launched in 2005 using fruit from that vintage, as well as
2006 from Tumbarumba. (And if you are wondering about Penfolds'
numbering system, it originated in the 1950s and '60s to identify
experimental and 'reserve' wines put aside for the exclusive use of
the company's directors. Now it's used to identify Penfolds' finest
and most highly sought-after drops.)
ONE FOR LUNCH: YELLOWGLEN has added a sparkling new wine to its Perle
range, a Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier Non Vintage Rosé sourced from
premium wine regions that's richly flavoured with strawberry and plum
in the mouth, has a nice dry finish and is up there with classic
Australian bubblies.
And even though rich it's not too heavy, so ideal as an aperitif, or
with soft cheeses, sashimi, fresh oysters, or seared tuna; good buying
at $28.99.
BUY OF THE WEEK: DEAKIN Estate's Dr Phil Spillman has created a
wonderfully quaffable $10 drop with his 2007 Sauvignon Blanc… served
chilled it's fresh, fruity, soft and zingy kiwifruit, lime and feijoa
(pineapple guava) flavours ideally suit oysters, white fish, asparagus
or goats cheese.
(Need a drink? We're archived on http://vintnews.com)
……………………
PHOTO CAPTIONS:
BINS for buffs: Penfolds' annual release of its Bin series is always
much-anticipated.
PEARLER – Yellowglen's Perle Non Vintage Rosé is ideal with soft
cheeses or seafoods.
WINE LOVERS CRUSH ON LEEDS CASTLE
WINE LOVERS CRUSH ON LEEDS CASTLE
david ellis
WHEN William the Conqueror decided to take over England in 1066, he
gave one of his invasion's cushier jobs to his half-brother, Bishop
Odo of Bayeux.
Odo was told to take hold of a small wooden fortress that had been
built on an island in a lake in Kent around 857AD by the then King of
Kent, Ethelbert IV. Away from the battle-front, the good Bishop found
the task a no-brainer and settled into an easy lifestyle amid one of
the prettiest parts of England.
So much so in fact that when counters went around 20 years later to
write up the first census for the Doomsday Book, they found a very
content Bishop Odo still ministering to an equally laid-back flock of
just forty-nine: a Keeper of his Fortress, 28 villagers, eight
smallholders, a dozen slaves and a handful of animals.
And the reason for the little community's relaxed outlook on life: a
half-hectare vineyard whose French-origin grapes kept them supplied
year-round with wine made by Odo himself.
Nine hundred years later, using a bit of literary licence, wine
produced from a vineyard on Bishop Odo's original site, is claimed to
be made "from England's oldest vineyard" even though Odo's grapes died
out 300 years after he himself went to his Maker, and today's vines
weren't planted until 1980.
And the site of Bishop Odo's fortress is now one of Britain's
most-visited historic sites, although long gone is the little wooden
fortress. In its place is the grand Leeds Castle – often dubbed "the
loveliest castle in the world."
The rambling 'new' stone Castle was built in 1119 by one of William
the Conqueror's Lords, Robert de Crevecoeur to supersede the wooden
fortress, and now occupies two islands in the lake; it is connected to
the surrounding countryside by a stone bridge that replaced the
original drawbridge.
And its history is as colourful as the setting itself: it's been used
as a garrison, a prison, a convalescent hospital, and played home to
six medieval queens and three noble families.
Henry VIII so loved the place he decreed it his summer palace, but
despite his love of a glass or three of red he ordered the cessation
of monastic winemaking there; without care the vines ran to ruin and
eventually died.
When Leeds Castle's gardeners decided to replant the vineyard in 1980,
they located the exact site of the original planted by Bishop Odo, and
in the first year of winemaking harvested enough grapes to make 1200
bottles of wine.
The vineyard now produces ten to fifteen times that amount, and with
Bishop Odo's winery long gone, the grapes are processed at a local
winery and labelled Leeds Castle Wine.
Leeds Castle is a captivating place to visit, and not just for its
history: it was totally restored by its last private owner, Lady
Baillie who bought it in 1926 and, with the assistance of Paris
decorator Stephane Boudin, transformed it into an elegant country
residence.
She opened it to the public in 1976 and today it sits in its lake amid
200ha of park, woodland and old-world English gardens.
An aviary with over 100 exotic species from around the world provides
eagles, falcons and hawks for falconry exhibitions, and is also home
to Jack – the only free-flying African Augur Buzzard in the UK.
There's a yew maze in which to test-out your deductive skills, an
underground grotto with macabre mythical beasts, hot air balloon rides
to take-in the stunning Kent countryside, and for those who can't help
themselves, a golf course.
There's also a duckery on the lake, as well as the castle's symbolic
Black Swans – descendants of those originally imported by Lady Baillie
from Australia.
But probably most unusual of all is the only Dog Collar Museum in the
UK. No one seems to know quite how it started, but it has examples of
hunting-dog collars spanning five centuries, and more modern canine
couture for the 21st century pampered pooch.
Leeds Castle attracts over 500,000 visitors a year and is open from
10am to 4pm during the winter months, and to 6pm in summer; it is
closed Christmas Day. Entry is 14-pounds per person for adults,
11-pounds for seniors and 8.50-pounds per child.
For information see travel agents, call the British Tourist Authority
on 1300 858 589 or check-out
……………….
PHOTO CAPTIONS:
LEEDS Castle – the loveliest castle in the world.
TODAY's vineyard, developed on the site of the original planted in 1068.
HENRY VIII's Banquetting Hall.
AUTUMN colours in the spectacular gardens of Leeds Castle.
Photos: Leeds Castle
Monday, 24 March 2008
PREMIUM WINES ARE IN THE BOX
YOUR WEEKLY WINE COLUMN for week beginning 24 March 2008
wine with david ellis
PREMIUM WINES ARE IN THE BOX
BEELGARA have created a great new version of the ubiquitous cask – a
budget-friendly job that holds 3-litres (four bottles) of premium
bottle-quality wine rather than vin ordinaire, and is cube-shaped to
save on fridge space.
And their so-called sq3 casks of wines are sure to not only please
those looking for vintage wines at a budget price, but greenies too:
Beelgara say the new casks reduce carbon production in the
manufacturing process by up to 80 per cent through the use of
cardboard and a foil bladder rather than glass.
These 3-litre sq3 cubes can be somewhat deceptive on first appearance,
certainly not seeming capable of having the equivalent of four bottles
tucked away inside; the current range includes a premium 2006 Cabernet
Merlot, 2006 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, a 2006 Chardonnay and a 2007
Rosé.
Each cask costs $24.95, or the equivalent of just $6.25 a bottle, at
select liquor stores and BWS; while all proved their value, the 2006
Cabernet Merlot got the most attention at a recent barbecue, with its
plum and berry fruit flavours and slightly earthy oak a great match
with lamb grillers and salad.
ONE FOR LUNCH: Bidgeebong Wines' Director of Winemaking, Andrew Birks
called on schoolteachers-turned-farmers, Robert and Heather Johansen
for fruit for his very more-ish 2006 Tumbarumba Sauvignon Blanc.
The Johansen's Mountain View Vineyard is just out of Tumbarumba and
their fruit enabled Andrew to create a wine that's got nice zesty lime
and lemon flavours coupled with fragrant passionfruit and herbaceous
aromas; pay $20 and enjoy with stir-fried chicken breast strips, lemon
grass and Asian greens topped with sliced avocado, lime juice and
coriander.
BUY OF THE WEEK: The wallet will appreciate you sharing that next
Sunday roast chicken with De Bortoli's Montage 2006 Chardonnay
Semillon; lovely creamy texture with lifted peach and tropical
characters, and its under $10.
(Need a drink? We're archived on http://vintnews.com)
……………………
PHOTO CAPTIONS:
IT's in the box – deceptively looking Beelgara sq3 casks hold the
equivalent of four bottles of premium wines.
MATCH this with stir-fried chicken breast strips, lemon grass and
Asian greens topped with sliced avocado, lime juice and coriander.
Monday, 17 March 2008
A SPECIAL WINE FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS
YOUR WEEKLY WINE COLUMN for week beginning 17 March 2008
wine with david ellis
A SPECIAL WINE FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS
WE've all some very special occasion lurking out there in the future,
and if you've one in mind and are looking for a good, good drop of
red, give some thought to Katnook Estate's just-released 2003 Odyssey
Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon.
Ok, its $95 a bottle. But remember it's very special occasions we're
talking about here.
This is a remarkable wine from a vintage that gave below average
yields, but fruit of exceptional quality: Senior Winemaker, Wayne
Stehbens spun his usual Odyssey magic to come up with a drop that's
rich and complex with ripe dark berry, dusty mulberry and spicy plum
fruit flavours, coupled with subtle vanilla, mocha, and chocolate from
long oak maturation.
Add its lingering tannins and it's a great celebratory wine with red
meats, game-bird dishes, or lamb shanks – or simply with a block of
high-cocoa chocolate before a winter's fire.
And if you can resist the temptation to draw the cork now, a few more
years in the cellar will make it all the better. Ohhh, yeahhhh....
ONE FOR LUNCH: WYNN'S Coonawarra Estate have been bottling a great
value-for-money Chardonnay since 1981, and their 2007 at $15.99 is
another that's an ideal partner with the weekend brunch or barbecue.
With quite luscious peach and nectarine flavours coupled with subtle
oak, a few bottles on the ice will go ideally with BBQ'd chicken or a
seafood salad.
BUY OF THE WEEK: LOGAN have released a super-priced range of $11
everyday-drinking wines under their NSW Central Ranges Apple Tree Flat
label. There's a 2007 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and '07 Chardonnay, and
a 2006 Merlot and '06 Shiraz, all of them full-flavoured and very
more-ish.
(Need a drink? We're archived on http://vintnews.com)
………………
PHOTO CAPTIONS:
CELEBRATE with this – it's been made with special occasion
dinner-partying in mind.
OLD favourite since 1981 for the weekend brunch of BBQ.
…………………















