TAKE TO BEST OF NSW’S BEST

Wc6Oct08

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WHETHER you've a palate you reckon could rival the best of show judges, or you're just a social slurper who enjoys a red or white or three any time, the place for you on October 22 will be Sydney's Wharf 8 where you'll have the chance to drink your way through the best from NSW's best wineries.

Called NSW Wine @ Wharf 8, it will be an opportunity to not only taste this year's NSW Wine Awards' Top 40 wines, but others from fifty-plus wineries in the State's fourteen wine regions that put up a good showing in the Awards.

"It's a chance to experience the State's best wines – including the NSW Wine of the Year and the Wine Awards' trophy winners – discover something about the State's fourteen wine regions, and to meet the people who make the wines," said Chair of NSW Wine Strategy, Tiffany Nugan.

"It'll be both educational and fun. For just $35, visitors get a souvenir wine glass and will be able to taste as many wines as they wish – coupled with gourmet cheeses to match all styles and varieties from table wines to bubblies, fortifieds and dessert wines," Ms Nugan said.

NSW Wine @ Wharf 8 will be staged from 5.30pm to 8.30pm on Wednesday October 22 at Wharf 8 that's at 53-59 Hickson Road, next to King Street Wharf on Sydney's Darling Harbour; for bookings or more information phone (02) 6964 4762 or visit www.nswwine.com.au

ONE FOR LUNCH: WHEN McLaren Vale's Dowie Doole winemaker, Brian Light launched his new Second Nature label, for his inaugural white he headed for the hills – the Adelaide Hills that is, which he reckons produces the best Sauvignon Blanc fruit in Australia.

"Our 2008 Second Nature Sauvignon Blanc shares Marlborough (New Zealand's) intensive, distinctive aromatics, but our's probably shows stronger bursts of tropical fruit flavours – and its mouth-filling and not thin on the palate." Pay $19 and enjoy with Coffin Bay oysters or grilled sand whiting.

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

[] BOTTLER! Bountiful expectations at NSW Wine @ Wharf 8 on October 22.

[] THE best of our Sauvignon Blanc – its Second Nature to Brian Light.

 

A HEATWAVE WINE – THAT’S COOL

 

wine with david ellis

 

MAKERS in South Australia's cool-climate regions will long remember the vintage of 2008 – right in the middle of harvest they were slammed by a heatwave that was not only freakish for the 35-degree temperatures that came with it, but the fact it lasted an extraordinary fifteen consecutive days.

 

Growers drew on every resource they could to get fruit off vines and into overflowing wineries as tonne upon tonne of grapes literally ripened before their eyes, throwing up challenges of enormous proportions in all directions.

 

Kirrihill Wines' senior winemaker, Donna Stephens recalls it as one of the toughest and most exhausting of her career, but is delighted with the resultant Companions Range wines that came out of such adversities.

 

Particularly outstanding is the 2008 Companions Chardonnay Viognier, a real stunner for what is normally a cool-climate wine, with a typically Clare Valley buttery and pineapple Chardonnay component and spicy peach and apricot from the Adelaide Hills' Viognier input.

 

And interestingly Donna gave it no oak maturation, thus preserving those full-on varietal characteristics. Great value at just $14.95 – and as it came from the heat, how better to enjoy than outdoors with a summery Caesar Salad?

 

ONE FOR LUNCH: WHEN a West Australian bandit named "Moondyne Joe" Johns decided to relieve a thirst by breaking into Houghton's Swan Valley winery in 1869, it's unlikely he would have expected to find himself honoured by the company on one of its labels 139 years later.

 

Moondyne Joe was on the run from prison and unfortunately for him a group of thirsty police officers investigating a local drowning turned up and found him in the winery cellar as he was helping himself to a quiet litre or three.

 

Houghton's The Bandit range includes a fruit-laden Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Gris 2008 ($19.95) that's excellent with white-fleshed fish and a garlic sauce.

 

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

 

. COOL result from freakish 15-day heatwave

 

. WINE thief steals centre stage

 

 

BOTTLING UP JACK’S GETTING OF WISDOM

 

wine with david ellis

 

 

JACK Mann – legendary winemaker at Houghton's in Western Australia for an amazing fifty-something vintages from 1922 – was not just an extraordinary winemaker, he was an extraordinary person in the way he freely shared the wisdom of his years with anyone who wanted to listen, be they young or old.

 

And equally extraordinarily, he acquired his renowned outlook on life almost entirely within the confines of his beloved Swan Valley, only ever venturing out of his home State once, and that was a short trip to South Australia.

 

Now, as yet a further honour to his remarkable contribution to the industry, Houghton's have renamed their famous Regional Range –  that showcases the strengths and characteristics of individual regions in WA's premium wine growing areas – the Wisdom Range.

 

Among these six is a 2004 Wisdom Frankland River Shiraz that has sweet red berry and black pepper dominance both on the nose and the palate, and is further enhanced with savoury tones and fine grained tannins in the mouth. 

 

At $32 this is a drop made to share with herb-crusted rare roast beef, or an after-dinner platter of hard cheeses. And as Jack was always willing to create a quote to share with listeners, the label comes with one of his classic thoughts: "I think 1932 was the turning point, when after accumulating a reasonable amount of knowledge, I realised that I knew nothing worthwhile."

 

ONE FOR LUNCH:  DE BORTOLI's who were amongst those that pioneered the NSW Riverina's emergence from a cheap bulk-winemaking region to one that now relishes world-wide recognition, has released a mouth-watering new Sacred Hill label Semillon Sauvignon Blanc in time for summer celebrations.

 

This 2008 "buy now, drink now" wine bounces with wonderful varietal fruit flavours, and at just $7.49 is value buying to go with seafoods and salads.

 

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PHOTO CAPTIONS

 

. LIKE the legendary Jack Mann, give proper thought as to how to enjoy this one – try it with herb-crusted rare roast beef

 

.  BUY now and enjoy now: a summer drop for seafoods and salads

 

 

LIGHTEN UP – WITH A LOWER ALCOHOL WHITE

 

wine with david ellis

 

WITH warmer days not too far off, for many of us our thoughts will soon be turning to alfresco dining and a glass or two of lower alcohol whites to enjoy with summery seafoods and salads in the middle of the day.

 

Chateau Tanunda have come up with just such a drop, a ripper of a crisp dry white that's just 10.5% alcohol – nearly a third under the normal – that almost explodes with spritzy lemon and lime flavours coupled with a lively touch of grapefruit and watermelon.

 

This 2007 Grand Barossa Classic Crisp Dry White wine is best served well chilled and lives up nicely to its "crisp" labelling; at $18 it's just the drop to share outdoors with a seafood platter and salad, or simply fish and chips.

 

ANOTHER FOR LUNCH: MILDARA have been making wine since the late 1800s, and have been producing true-to-variety wines from the Coonawarra region since the 1950s.

 

Amongst their latest from this renowned area is a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz from the rewarding 2005 vintage that gave winemakers fruit with exceptionally ripe-fruit flavours and generous tannins; this wine has rich dark berry fruit flavours with a sweet cinnamon spiciness and light vanillin on the palate.

 

Pay $28.99 and team it with a mixed grill accompanied by boiled tiny potatoes tossed in melted butter and sprinkled with Tuscan herbs.

 

WINE OF THE WEEK: IF there's a party on the horizon and you're going to need a few bottles of bubbles, give serious thought to De Bortoli's new Emeri Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc that at just $13.99 is loaded with soft tropical fruit flavours and a creaminess that will go with all manner of party-room finger food. And if for some reason you're looking for just a couple of celebratory glasses on your own, it also comes in a handy 200ml miniature at just $5.49.

 

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

 

CLASSIC: This crisp dry white is nearly a third lighter in alcohol and ideal with midday seafood salads or fish 'n chips.

 

THINK about a mixed grill with Tuscan-herbed tiny potatoes to partner this exceptional Coonawarra red.

 

 

HEAR, HEAR FOR A TRIO OF OPTIMISTES

Wc15Sep08

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AFTER growing some of the best fruit in NSW's Mudgee district and seeing local winemakers scooping up the medals with the wines that came from it, Steven and Sharlene Dadd took the plunge several years ago and decided to go into the winemaking business themselves.

They got great support for the venture they dubbed Optimiste Wines from Arrowfield's acclaimed winemaker Barry Kooij, and have now been joined by exciting young maker, Michael Slater.

The Dadd's have just released their first wines, a 2005 Optimiste Cabernet Sauvignon, and an Optimiste Petit Verdot and a Marquis from the excellent 2006 vintage – the Marquis a beautifully smooth, flavoursome blend with signature blackberry flavours from the 50% Cabernet, nice ripe plum fruit from the 30% Merlot component and lifted aromas from the balance of Petit Verdot.

The Dadd's dedicated their Marquis to young son, Marcus whose inspiring struggle with deafness, they say, captures the spirit of hope and passion of the Optimiste label.

Pay $24, and enjoy this one with lamb cutlets and a lentil salad.

ONE FOR LUNCH: EVANS & TATE drew fruit from across the whole of the Margaret River region for their 2007 Margaret River Classic White, a wine that year after year showcases the crisp zestiness of the Region's Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.

Tropical fruit notes from the Sauvignon Blanc component and herbal gooseberry and nectarine from the Semillon make this an ideal wine for al fresco dining, one that's got "chuck another shrimp on the barbie" written all over it… so pay $18.99, gather some mates and do just that.

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

. NEW Mudgee label inspired by a spirit of hope and passion

. CHUCK another shrimp on the barbie with this Classic White

HISTORY’S IN THE BOTTLE

Wc1Sep08

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TRIVIA buffs may find there's a buck to be made in the history of McWilliam's iconic Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon, the 2003 of which is now released.

Firstly Mount Pleasant has – probably uniquely in the world – had only three Chief Winemakers since being established by the legendary Maurice O'Shea 87-years ago in 1921, and secondly it's Elizabeth Semillon that debuted in 1967 was so-named by the McWilliam family after Queen Elizabeth II who was enjoying great popularity in Australia at the time.

Thirdly the wine for nearly fifteen years was incorrectly labelled "Hunter Riesling" until this was corrected by current Chief Winemaker, Phil Ryan in 1982…and finally its sister wine, Mount Pleasant Philip Shiraz that is also still one of the company's icons today, was named after Elizabeth's husband, Prince Philip.

Ryan, who has been at the helm since 1978, took over from Brian Walsh who had been given the baton by Maurice O'Shea in 1956, which helps explain the consistency of style of this exceptional Hunter Valley wine.

Phil Ryan crafted the 2003 from fruit handpicked for its primary lemon and citrus fruit characters that come through generously on the palate, and there are also hints of typically aged-Hunter Semillon toast and lanolin characters.

This is a serious wine for those who are equally serious about matching good Semillon with good seafood, yet remarkably its just $17.99 a bottle. Team it up with Terikyaki infused scallops on limed Vermicelli noodles.

ONE FOR LUNCH: KATNOOK Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is another classic that's been around a long time (since 1980,) and the 2005 reflects everything that's great about Coonawarra; several vineyards contributed to this wine that has beautifully concentrated fruit flavours and fine tannins. Pay $40 and share it with friends over a slab of high-cocoa, bitter-sweet dark chocolate.

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

A WINE of longevity: Mount Pleasant has had just three Chief Winemakers in its 87-year history.

BITTER-sweet: this wine is one for the choco-holics.

GOLD BOOK UNEARTHS REAL GEMS

Wc25Aug08

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WE've long considered one of the most valuable assets in the cellar to be Australian Wine Vintages – truly "the Gold Book" for the true wine enthusiast.

And the latest edition reflects the first change in authorship in the book's 29 year history, with Master of Wine, Robert Geddes joining original creator, Robin Bradley for the 2009 edition – Robin's last before he retires in 2010.

Australian Wine Vintages provides buffs and collectors with a unique, easy to understand data base about the quality, value and "use-by" potential of the best wines from Australia's top 350 producers – with Robert this year undertaking an enormous 18,000 data searches to create a realistic snapshot of current values and prices through retail outlets and at auction.

Since first appearing in 1979, the "Gold Book" has sold over 900,000 copies and provided enormous assistance both to the trade and sophisticated wine drinkers and collectors: one Sydney man has built-up a $100,000 cellar based purely on the book's recommendations, and two others have used it to amass over 650 bottles each including rare vintages dating back to 1976.

The 2009 edition of this must-have book for true wine aficionados is priced at $34.99 and will be on sale in time for Father's Day… if you can take the hint.

ONE FOR LUNCH: IF ever a wine has "special event" written over it, it's Lindemans 2005 Coonawarra Pyrus – a classic Bordeaux style blend with a backbone of 81 per cent old vine Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and a touch of Malbec.

This is a wine whose rich and supple palate has intense sweet berry fruit flavours, pluminess from the Merlot component, and spicy and earthy notes from the small 2% Malbec contribution.

Pay $54.99 for that special-occasion and share with a hearty Beef Wellington.

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

. A MUST-have for those who take their wine seriously.