VERY SPECIAL RED FOR VERY SPECIAL OCCASION

david ellis

VERY special occasions call for very special wines, and up there with the very best special-occasion reds is Mount Pleasant's 2005 Hunter Valley Maurice O'Shea Shiraz.

Hand-nurtured from the start with the selection of individual bunches of fruit from 125-year old vines on the Old Hill Vineyard, through the winemaking process and into bottle, this wine was first created in 1987 as a tribute to legendary Maurice O'Shea, and his recognition of the special partnership between soil and varietal, site and style, and vineyard and individual winemaking expression.

2005 was an excellent vintage in the Hunter and Mount Pleasant's Chief Winemaker, Phil Ryan used this to full advantage, crafting a wine that would surely bring a sparkle to Maurice O'Shea's eye if he were around today: it has beautifully rich blackberry and plum fruit flavours to the fore, nice layers of spice and velvety tannins.

It is classic Hunter Valley Shiraz, reflecting its origins in the heavy, rich, volcanic soils in the Old Hill Vineyard that O'Shea purchased back in 1921 from the King family, who had planted it to vines in the foothills of the Brokenback Range way back in 1880.

Well priced at $65 for a wine of such finesse for that very special occasion, match it with roast duck, a red currant jus and seasonal vegetables.

ONE FOR LUNCH:  Spring frosts followed by above-average temperatures during the growing season resulted in reduced yields in Coonawarra in 2008, but rewarded makers with fruit of great flavour-intensity. One such was Katnook Estate's Wayne Stehbens who produced a beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from this topsy-turvy vintage: it has subtle herbaceous and mineral notes and a nice richness on the palate – don't look past it at $28 to go with oysters, prawns and a warm crusty baguette, or spicy chicken or veal dishes.

(NEED A FOOD/DRINK IDEA? Check out  http://www.vintnews.com )

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

[] SPECIAL occasion red that honours a legend.

[] MATCH this with oysters, prawns and a warm crusty baguette.

DROLL THOUGHTS ON A ‘FEROCIOUS’ PROBLEM

Wc13Apr09

david ellis

WINEMAKERS can be a droll lot, and Chateau Tanunda's Tim Smith certainly typifies this with his description of a 2009 vintage in the Barossa Valley that began perfectly, then descended rapidly into hellishly heatwave conditions that Adelaide newspapers described as "ferocious."

On top of that, for some reason when fruit had to be assessed for picking in February, Tim found some vines suffered severe heat stress, while others  were almost unaffected and showed extremely good natural acid levels.

And so how did he sum up such a cantankerous vintage? "It was certainly interesting," he said. Now that's droll, and Tim chose his fruit for one particular wine, a 2009 Moscato under the Barossa Tower label that's particularly close to his heart, by combing through his vineyards virtually bunch by bunch.

"We first made Moscato in 2005 when an Australian style of this wine was relatively unknown," Tim says. "But we've enjoyed continuing success with it, and actually have had to increase production year after year. In fact our 2008 has won two Gold Medals, as well as being named by the Adelaide Advertiser newspaper as one of the "Best Buys of 2008 at $15 and Under."

The just-released 2009 Barossa Tower Moscato from that "interesting" vintage, is a naturally sweet wine with refreshing acidity, and is full of fresh lime, watermelon and guava fruit flavours, with a soft gentle spritz. Pay $15 and enjoy with spicy Thai dishes – or apple pie and ice-cream.

ONE FOR LUNCH – in the Hunter Valley, Friday April 17 to Sunday 19 when 150-plus Hunter Semillons will be showcased as part of the 8th Semillon and Seafood Festival. There'll be matching food and Semillon tastings, cooking demonstrations, and the chance to meet with such legendary winemakers as Bruce Tyrrell, Mike Deluliis, Keith Tulloch, Phil Ryan, 2008 Winemaker of the Year, Andrew Thomas and others. Program details, ticket prices and to book into demos: (02) 4991 4533 or www.huntersemillonandseafood.com.au  

(NEED A FOOD/DRINK IDEA? Check out  http://www.vintnews.com )

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

[] MATCH for spicy Thai main courses, or with apple pie and ice-cream.

[] ANDREW Thomas: holding a Masterclass on Sunday April 19 as part of the Hunter Valley's Semillon & Seafood Festival.

DEBBIE HAS PINOT GRIS CLIMBING HIGH

Wc06Apr09

david ellis

PINOT Gris that hails from France is not the easiest grape variety to grow in Australia, but it's found a home at Orange in NSW's Central West where it enjoys the region's intense sunlight, mild clear days and very cool nights.

Senior Winemaker at Climbing Wines, Debbie Lauritz spent some time working with Pinot Gris in Alsace and has a passion for the variety that's reflected in the exceptional 2008, a somewhat voluptuous wine with beautifully concentrated zesty pear and apple flavours.

It's certainly rewarded Debbie for the patience needed in the vineyard – a lot more than usual pruning as well as bunch and shoot trimming – and consumers who are turning in rapidly growing numbers to this varietal.

"It's worth the effort," Debbie says. "Because the older the vines become the better they get, and with ours now 12 years old they have a well-balanced canopy that results in less fruit, but much more concentrated flavours."

Pay $21.99 and don't look past enjoying with simple fish and chips or fried chicken and salad.

ONE FOR LUNCH:  In his constant search for the best parcels of Hunter Valley land for creating wines of exceptional character and longevity, the legendary Maurice O'Shea in 1945 came across a block of rich volcanic soil that he planted to vines and named Rosehill Vineyard; he was able to develop the vineyard with the backing of the McWilliam family, and today it is one of the iconic Mount Pleasant stable of unique Hunter Valley vineyards.

A just-released 2004 Mount Pleasant Shiraz crafted by Chief Winemaker, Phil Ryan is a grand tribute to the foresight of Maurice O'Shea: it has dominant red berry fruit flavours complemented by earthy characters and a lovely savoury palate. A good choice at $33.99 to enjoy with roast duck, parsley mash potatoes and a green peppercorn sauce.

(NEED A FOOD/DRINK IDEA? Check out  http://www.vintnews.com )

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Photo captions:

[] CLIMBING to new heights in popularity, and just the drop with fish and chips

[] PLEASANT tribute to a Hunter Valley legend, enjoy with roast duck dishes

HISTORIC OAKVALE HAS PLENTY OF SURPRISES

Wc30Mar09

david ellis

ONE of the oldest working wineries in Australia, and certainly amongst the most interesting to visit, is Oakvale at Pokolbin in the shadow of the Hunter Valley's famous Brokenback Range.

First planted to grapes by an industrious expatriate Scottish coal miner, William Elliott in 1893 the former dairy farm has been owned by just three families over the past 116 years, current owner Richard Owens (who also owns the nearby Milbrovale vineyard at Broke-Fordwich) buying it in 1999.

Oakvale produces a range of wines that are mostly available only through Cellar Door or mail order, and one outstanding drop that should be a must-buy for Semillon buffs is the 2008 Gold Rock: wonderful lime citrus and slightly herbaceous characters dominate in a palate that has good acid balance and a long crisp finish, making it exceptional buying at $20.

It's worth a visit to the Hunter to taste the Oakvale range at the Cellar Door and enjoy country morning or afternoon teas and light luncheons at the coffee shop. And the kids will be fascinated with a replica old country store stocked with grocery items from a half century ago in William Elliott's original 1893 slab cottage, as well as the kid's playground.

And consider a night at their luxury country cottages to enjoy a bottle or two of the 2008 Gold Rock Semillon there with pan-fried white fish fillets; if you can't visit phone toll-free 1800 005 550 or order through www.oakvalewines.com.au

ONE FOR LUNCH:  2007 was one of the best vintages ever for Merlot in the Margaret River, with a warm Spring and consistent temperatures throughout the ripening period producing fruit with fine tannins, intense flavour and great colour. Evans & Tate have just released their Merlot from this vintage and its little wonder it's already sweeping up Trophies and Gold Medals: this very more-ish wine is full-bodied with berry fruit flavours and subtle cedar and spice, ideal at $22.99 to share with a lamb roast.

(Need a drink? We're archived on http://vintnews.com)
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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

[] A MUST-BUY Semillon from one of our oldest wineries

[] JUST the match with a lamb roast

 

MARLARGO’S ROSÉ A CRIMSON TEMPTRESS

Wc23Mar09


david ellis

WE've long sung the praises of Rosé as a companion to Asian dishes – particularly those with seafood at their heart – and a label we came upon for the first time only recently, exceeded our expectations in every regard.

It was Marlargo's McLaren Vale Cabernet Rosé, a brilliant-crimson wine with a temptress-look label that alone was enough to have us taking it off the shelf.

But it was winemaker Goe Di Fabio's skills that completed our enthusiasm after we'd grabbed our bottles: on opening, aromas of fresh-picked raspberries and black cherries burst out, while the dry-style on the palate was bounteous with fresh berry fruit flavours, black cherries and citrus.

A silky finish made this wine one to take to enthusiastically with a first course of coconut-crumbed prawns and a sweet chilli sauce, while the real match was with the mains: sushi-grade tuna wrapped in nori and deep fried in a light tempura batter, with an accompanying sweet soy reduction, avocado and raspberry sauce.

At $20, this one will have you going back for more.

ONE FOR LUNCH: FATHER and son winemaking team, Robert and James Lusby have come up with a ripper 2008 Pebbles Brief Chardonnay from their Tintilla Estate Vineyard in the Hunter Valley.

This gently-oaked wine has more-ish ripe-fruit flavours up front, followed by a mid-palate that's characteristically flinty with accompanying lime and stone fruit, and a clean finish.

At $26 share it with seafood salads, or if you're in a barbecue mood, partner it with seared tuna accompanied by potatoes wrapped in foil with a splash of olive oil and a dab of garlic, and cooked over the coals.   

(NEED A FOOD/DRINK IDEA? Check out  http://www.vintnews.com )

 

PHOTO CAPTIONS:

[] ONE THAT'LL HAVE YOU GOING BACK FOR MORE

[] PERFECT WITH SEARED TUNA AND FOIL WRAPPED POTATOES

BIN 28, CLASSIC WINE FOR CLASSIC EVENTS

Wc16Mar09

david ellis

THERE are few things in life that we buy with absolutely no intention of enjoying for years – in some cases anything up to a decade or more – but good red wine is one of them.

And if you've a milestone family or other event coming up in the next ten or fifteen years, take a tip and stock up now on a few bottles of the just-released 2006 Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz.

This wine, whose own birth created something of a milestone when it came into this world a half century ago from the 1959 vintage, has long been a showcase Aussie Shiraz, and this latest 2006 delivers the classic Bin 28 style to perfection: it is huge on generous spice, dark licorice and chocolate flavours, and there's lovely fruity cranberry acidity and good solid tannins.

Originally 100-per cent Barossa Valley, today's Bin 28 is a multi-region blend, with the Barossa continuing to make up a substantial part of the blend.

Priced at $33.99 a bottle its good buying by the case for that particular milestone in the next ten to fifteen years… and if you are tempted to whip a bottle from the case now just to see how good it is, put it on the table with a hearty Beef Wellington and early-cropping cool-season vegies.

ONE FOR LUNCH:  WINEMAKER Dr Phil Spillman jokes that with the fruity lime, pineapple, quince and custard apple flavours in his 2008 inaugural Deakin Estate Viognier, you should put on an Hawaiian shirt just to drink it.

We're not sure about the shirt, but he's right about this wine that was made without oak, so letting its full-on tropical fruit flavours come to the fore. At just $10 buy a few and create your own "Hawaiian luau" – mix a cup of pineapple juice with a 1/2 cup of brown sugar, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 cloves garlic and a teaspoon of fresh ginger, and marinate chicken thighs in this for 30 minutes before cooking on the barbie. And, yes, if you must, put on that shirt.  

(NEED A FOOD/DRINK IDEA? Check out http://www.vintnews.com)
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Photo captions:
 
[] FIFTY years a showcase Aussie Shiraz

[] YOU'll need an Hawaiian shirt to share this one at a barbie

MASTERFUL BILL’S BARBECUE SHIRAZ

Wc9March09

david ellis

IF Westend Estate's 2007 Richland Shiraz was a beer, you'd be putting it into the biggest glass you could find and quaffing it in great swallows while the steaks cooked on the barbie.

But it's a wine, so you've got to take it in smaller glasses and not throw it down with gusto.

Which is easier said than done, because this Shiraz from the Riverina's masterful Bill Calabria is huge on varietal black plum, red currant and spicy pepper flavours, and slips down the throat with a velvety smoothness.

And remarkably it's priced at just $11.99 so you can enjoy a few now with family or friends around that barbecue, and put a few aside for later when it's gained a bit more complexity with a couple of years aging.

Enjoy with beef fillet off the BBQ plate accompanied with some lightly cooked mushrooms infused with a touch of garlic, and a good dollop of polenta.

And here's a tip: if it's a particularly warm day, pop the bottle in the fridge for 30 minutes before opening to take a bit of heat off the glass; it'll make it all the more enjoyable – as it won't be cold, but it won't be too warm either.

ONE FOR LUNCH: The Hunter Valley's Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard has been selling a damn good Tempranillo at cellar-door-only for some years now, and finally it's released its first of this varietal under the Audrey Wilkinson label.

It's done so from the 2007 harvest that was one of the earliest and best in the Hunter's history, and thus suited this early-ripening Spanish varietal perfectly; the resultant wine has full-on black cherry and spice aromas, and lovely dark- berry fruit flavours with accompanying fine tannins.

At $19.99 how better to enjoy this Spanish beauty than with a hearty Paella?

(NEED A FOOD/DRINK IDEA? Check out http://www.vintnews.com)

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PHOTO CAPTIONS:

[] JUST the drop with BBQ'd beef fillet, garlic infused mushrooms and polenta

[] TEMPTING Tempranillo: a Spanish beauty to enjoy with Paella