Saturday 5 July 2014




David Ellis


ANDREW Margan has been making wonderful Semillons in what he likes to call "pure Hunter style" for some ten years now, wines that he puts particular effort into for his increasingly-lauded Aged Release range.


The latest is a 2013 Limited Release White Label Semillon, that while you can uncap and enjoy in the glass now, is also one to give serious consideration to for celebrating something special down the line, like maybe ringing-in the year 2020 or – the way this wine's looking already, even 2025.


2013 was outstanding for Semillon in the Hunter, and Andrew drew fruit for this one from a single block of old vines that gave huge, fully-ripe flavours with high natural acidity – that acidity being the key to this wine's ageing potential.


With lifted citrus on the nose and lovely grassy, lemony flavours now, it's a drop to really enjoy with seafoods while young, but put a few bottles away and watch it develop over the years into a more toasty, honeyed wine with a lemony butteriness.

Pay $30, and at that price do also think about putting one aside for ringing-in 2020 – and another for 2025.


ONE TO NOTE: ONE who continues to impress with quality wines at affordable toss-'em-down prices is Apple Tree Flat's Peter Logan, and his latest Shiraz, the 2012 is just the drop at this time of year to enjoy around the fire – or, as Shiraz is often said to be 'Australia's national variety,' to think about matching with our other 'national' icon, roast lamb for an ideal Winter's lunch or dinner.


Shiraz has long been a stand-out variety in Apple Tree Flat's home region of Mudgee in NSW, and this one is regionally classic with red and dark berry fruit flavours, a touch of earthiness, good acidity and some woody spiciness that doesn't make it overly strong in the oak department.


Toss in a price tag of just $13, and you're on a winner with that roast lamb.


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[] ENJOY a bottle now with seafood, and put aside a couple for future celebrations.

[] A 'national variety' to enjoy with that other 'national' icon – roast lamb.


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